Warning! The next white person (Non-American white people included) that tells me “You speak English too well to be Ethiopian (African) might get
bitch-slapped some stern words from me”.
Solo traveling is undoubtedly exciting and at times slow but when you’re not eagerly looking for doing touristy things, it can be extremely lonely. While I make use of most of my time getting deeper into my project and exploring places not often covered in guidebooks, it is often great to take short breaks to visit “must see” places to re-situate myself. Visiting “must see” places alone kinda sucks so it’s often great to meet and join up with other travelers even if it’s for a short period of traveling together.
In Ethiopia so far, I’ve met many travelers who were really awesome and spending time together has been so great that it makes my solo return to traveling a bit depressing. But there are those people that you meet that make you wish that the earth would open up and swallow them whole because they just suck. Seriously, I tend to avoid tourists because I just don’t like to deal with the ignorance that some might pack alongside their hiking backpacks. I’m honestly starting to believe that there are some people who should be banned from traveling because of their impatience, close-mindedness, obnoxiousness and stupidity.
Fact! I am not separating myself from tourists just because I am traveling with a purpose and a project but I’ll let you know that I do make sure my brains and sense of cultural relativism/understanding are intact every time I travel.
I don’t want to single out a particular group of people from any country so I’ll just speak wholly about my experiences. Whether you like it or not, we are representative of our countries, and our behavior can reflect on our nations as a whole. That’s why even though you might miss the comfort of your own home or country, it is better to use the “spirit” of travel immersion as a form of self-guidance before screaming at the waitress for not getting your order right or the hotel manager for not speaking “good English”- WTF is good English anyway?. I am 100% sure that I am not the only traveler who has noticed that traveler or those groups of tourists that always to do their best to always stick out like sore thumbs. Anyway, here is a breakdown of three of the most annoying things I’ve experienced among other tourists doing in Ethiopia.
Ordering Food: I seriously lost count of the amount of times I’ve sat watching in disbelief as people make ridiculous alterations to “traditional foods” while making orders at restaurants. “Like I want so and so food but hold the pepper, onions, spices – anything that makes the food uniquely Ethiopian or traditional”… Yes! You’ll miss out on a lot if you ignore the local food in favor of what’s familiar to you: always seeking out the burgers, pizza and Caesar salads on a menu. However in trying local food, it is pivotal to keep an open mind and don’t be a nuisance. I’ve seen people send back their orders simply because it didn’t look like what they expected it to be- sheeesh!! Ethiopia isn’t NYC, London or Tel Aviv. Okay! I know people have dietary issues and what-not but there’s a fine line between politely asking for something and screaming at the poor waiter/ress for including something that’s in the recipe. Also just because you’ve accidentally had food poisoning in another African country doesn’t equate the whole continent being bad for dining- if I had a nickel every time I heard a sentence like “I’m skeptical of African dishes…blah blah”… I’d have enough to pay the court fees for slapping someone (I’m actually not a violent person).
Fact! Blending in and conformity are the best forms of flattery when in a new country. No one expects you to be an expert on their culture, but they will appreciate your show of interest in trying to assimilate yourself.
Dumb Generalizations: It’s 2016 and sadly people still think Africa is a country. I recently had to resist the urge to utilize my backhand when a middle-aged white woman said “No I can’t eat that because of the Ebola”. What made it worse is that when I corrected her, she had the nerve to say “oh sorry! You know what I mean”- ummm no I don’t dummy. It literally hurts my soul when I meet people who seem cool at first but miraculously turn into morons when the conversation moves past the “where are you from phase”. While in Addis, I saw a woman struggling to find direction – judging by their north face jackets, running shoes and leggings, I figured she was American- I wasn’t wrong. Being a good-Samaritan, I asked where she were going and helped her out, she proceeded to thank me by saying “Thank you, people here just can’t speak good English or give good directions”- insert the face you make when you’re tired of someone’s stupidity but you don’t want to be bothered.
Aanndd on a personal note, there’s been numerous times that I’ve been approached by tourists because of my Michigan hat, who upon finding out that I’m American jokingly say “AHHH I knew your English was too good for you to be Ethiopian”. I’ve counted 4 instances so far, I don’t know if I’ll have any more self-control left by the fifth instance. Seriously it’s ridiculous, there are some tourists who believe that if they encounter an Ethiopian who speaks fluent English, it means he or she is most likely a crook- I kid you not there are several tourists traveling in Ethiopia right now who believe this absurdity. In the calmest voice I could muster, I often make analogies to show these people how stupid they sound when they make such generalizations. There are those who get and apologize but most of the time, people just pull on their hoodies of white privilege and change the topic.
Over the top Photography: I recently decided to travel to Lalibela to celebrate Gena (Ethiopian Christmas) – Gena is one of the most important celebrations for Orthodox Christians in Ethiopia. Every year devoted Christians from all over make a 14-day pilgrimage by foot to get to Lalibela for the celebrations-its honestly beautiful and touching see how devoted the people are to their traditions. Anyway, knowing that things are pricier during the 3 days of the Gena celebration, I arrived in the town a week early to secure accommodation at the regular price- smart travel 101. The local acquaintances I made told me about the high influx of tourists (faranjis) during Gena but I was honestly blown away about how many people showed up to experience the celebrations. During Gena, is normal to see many pilgrims sleeping around the rock-hewn churches or in groups praying continuously. It is normal to want to capture these moments but of course there are those people who just take it too far.
Fact! Locals and local lives in different cultures are not episodes of a national geographic show. So please ask before you invade someone’s personal space for the good shot.
Now, I’d admit, I love photography and I love getting the perfect shot as much as anyone else would but there are moments when people need to realize that they’re just being rude. I witnessed so many people literally shove their cameras in the faces of priests and pilgrims as if they were creatures in a safari. Most of the priests and pilgrims would be deep in prayers only to have disturbed by the loud talking and camera flashes/shutters of these tourists. I haven’t been to Italy to observe mass with the pope but I can bet that people aren’t as rude and inconsiderate to the worshipers. It gets worse, during a morning mass at the St. George Church, I saw a tourist get mad at a priest for refusing to pose in a photo for him – like seriously??!. I can go on and on but seriously I just wish more people who want to travel to African countries- see what I did there?- would invest an equal amount of time in educating themselves/being open-minded as much as they do in buying guidebooks and fanny packs.